Cracked, chipped or uneven garage floor? We check the cracks first, then resurface it or pour a new slab that fits your plans.
Garage floor concrete work in Calabasas is one of two jobs. We either resurface your floor by bonding a thin new topping to concrete that's still sound, so you get a fresh, even surface to coat, or we break out the old slab, haul it away and pour a new one. Resurfacing is the quicker of the two.
Most calls start with something you can see. Cracks run across the floor, the edges by the door are chipped, the top turns dusty no matter how often you sweep, or one section has dropped. Some of that is only skin deep, and some of it means the ground under the slab has moved, and that difference decides which job you need.
The price moves with the size of the garage and which of the two jobs it is, because a tear-out adds breaking, hauling and base work that a resurface doesn't. The schedule turns on the same choice, since a new slab has to cure, which means sitting undisturbed while it gains strength, before you park on it or coat it. It also depends on whether the city wants a permit for your job. The estimate I write after looking at your garage gives you your own figure.
I started this business in 2020 after learning the trade as a helper on a concrete crew, and you deal with me the whole way, from the first look at your floor to the day we clean up.
After you reach out, I come to your house, look at the cracks and low spots, listen to what you want the garage to be and answer whatever you ask. Then I write up the estimate with the work spelled out, so you can see whether it's a resurface or a new slab and why.
We're fully licensed and insured, which matters on a garage job because a tear-out means heavy breaking and hauling right next to your house. Once you're ready to go ahead, we sort out the paperwork with you and do the prep before the pour.
I'm there with our crew from the prep through the pour and the cleanup, so the person who made the call on your cracks is the one watching the work. Satisfaction guaranteed on every job, and you can start with a call to (747) 269-3817 or the form below.
I start every garage floor with the cracks, since a crack that's still moving will come back through a resurface no matter how good the topping is. Then I tell you plainly whether resurfacing fits your floor or a new slab is worth the longer wait. If it's a new slab, the part I won't skimp on is the subgrade, the packed ground the slab sits on, because a base that's only raked level settles with the dirt and takes your new floor with it. It's hidden by the end of the first day and it's the first thing people want to cut from a budget, but I'd rather spend your money there than on a fancier top.
A garage floor often leads to the rest of the property. If you'd like color or pattern instead of plain gray, our decorative concrete work can carry that look past the garage door, and if the ground beside your garage or driveway needs holding back, we build concrete retaining walls too.
The work changes a little between a resurface and a new slab, but the order stays the same.
You move the cars and whatever's stored on the floor, and we cover what has to stay nearby. Grinding and breaking concrete throws dust, so this saves you a cleanup later.
For a resurface, we grind and clean the old floor and patch it so the topping bonds to solid concrete. For a new slab, we break out the old one, dig out and pack the base, and set the forms and steel with the floor sloped toward the door so water runs out instead of toward the house.
We plan the pour around the heat, because concrete finished in the middle of a hot day can end up with a weak, dusty top. We finish the surface for the floor you've chosen, such as a broom finish, a light brushed texture for grip, if it's staying bare, and we cut the joints before the slab picks its own crack lines.
We keep traffic off while it cures and tell you when it's ready for feet and when it's ready for the car. Our crew cleans up before we leave, and I walk the floor with you.
Tell me the rough size of your garage, send photos of any cracks and let me know what floor finish you're after, and I'll come out ready to talk it through. We reply within one business day, the estimate is free and done at your property, and there's no pressure to book. After you send the form or call (747) 269-3817, we set a time, I look at the floor with you, and I write up the estimate.
(747) 269-3817Resurface if the concrete underneath is sound and the cracks aren't moving, and replace it if they are. A properly installed overlay is expected to last about 8 to 15 years, against 20 to 30 years for a new slab. To check a crack yourself, run a fingernail across it, and if it catches on a lip where one side has dropped, that crack is moving and will show through any overlay, since a topping isn't a structural repair. I'll take a closer look when I come out for the estimate.
One flooring maker says resurfacing can often be done in days, while a replacement can stretch into weeks before a floor finish goes on. A new overlay usually needs about 24 hours before you walk on it and 72 hours before you drive on it, going by the product's instructions. If you're replacing the slab, plan for those curing weeks before any coating goes down.
A reinforced concrete slab in Los Angeles usually costs about $8 to $15 per square foot installed. That's what the market tends to charge, not our price, and where your floor lands depends on its size, the tear-out and how much base work it needs. The estimate I write after seeing your garage gives you your own number.
California's C-8 Concrete Contractor license covers contractors who form, pour, place, finish and install flat concrete work. That's what the trade calls flatwork, which takes in garage floors, driveways, patios and walks. Before you hire anyone, it's fair to ask what license they hold.
It depends on what goes on top, according to one garage slab guide. The guide calls a vapor retarder, a barrier against moisture rising from the soil, worth having under an epoxy or polyaspartic coating or if you plan to heat and finish the garage later, and it says a bare broom-finished floor in an unheated garage needs none. Tell me what you have in mind for the space so we can plan for it before the pour.
Whether your garage floor needs a building permit is up to the city, not us, so we check with the office that covers your address before we start and work through what they ask for with you. In Calabasas that's the Building and Safety Division, which you can reach at (818)-224-2534 if you'd like to ask yourself, and if you pull the permit on your own as the owner-builder, the city asks for a Property Owner's Disclosure. Anything placed in the public right-of-way, like a debris bin in the street during a tear-out, needs an encroachment permit approved by the city's Public Works Department.
Concrete can go down here in any month, since there's no frost to wait out, and one Los Angeles pricing guide calls October through May slightly better because cooler weather lowers the risk of the surface drying too fast. If your timing is flexible, that's worth weighing, but it's a small edge and not a reason to put off a floor that's failing. We're based in Calabasas and work across the cities around it, including Agoura Hills, Westlake Village and Thousand Oaks, and if your city isn't on our list, call and ask.
Call (747) 269-3817 or use the form before you spend money on a coating, so we can tell you whether the floor under it will hold.
If you'd like to talk through your garage floor before deciding anything, I'm glad to answer your questions.
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