If your walk is cracked, sinking or missing, we'll build a new concrete sidewalk that sits flat and is safe to walk on.
Concrete sidewalk building in Calabasas starts with digging out the old walk or bare ground and packing a firm base. Then we place fresh concrete and cure it while it hardens, so you end up with a flat, even walk whose cracks stay small. Precision Calabasas Concrete does this work across Calabasas and the cities around it, and you stay off the new walk until it has cured.
Most people call us when a walk has cracked, sunk at one end or started holding puddles, or when there's no walk at all where everybody ends up walking anyway. The price mostly turns on how long and wide the walk is, whether old concrete has to be broken out and hauled away, how much digging and base work the ground needs, how much steel goes in, how easy it is to get our crew and the concrete to the spot, and the finish you pick. After I come out, the written estimate gives you the figure for your walk.
The schedule turns on three things: paperwork, weather and curing. If your walk runs in the public right-of-way, the city wants a permit for it, so we check with the office that covers your address before we start and work through what they ask for with you. Pour day can move if it turns hot and windy, and once the concrete is in, the walk stays closed until it has cured.
From the first call to the cleanup, you deal with me and our crew. I'd rather answer one more question before we pour than leave you guessing afterward.
I've run this business in Calabasas since 2020, and I still do every estimate in person. I walk the line of the sidewalk with you, look at the ground and where the water goes, listen to what you want, and then write up the estimate so you can see what's in the job before you decide.
We're fully licensed and insured. Once you're ready, we sort out what the city asks for at your address and then schedule the prep, so the paperwork is settled before our crew digs.
I don't hand the job off once it's booked. I'm on site with our crew from the dig-out through the pour and the cleanup, and if something under the old walk changes the plan, you'll hear about it from me on the spot.
I start with the ground, because that decides how the walk behaves later. We dig down to firm subgrade, the ground the walk will sit on, and pack a base on it instead of raking dirt level, since a walk poured on loose fill settles right along with it. Before the forms go up I check where the water runs, so the walk sheds water away from the house and not toward it. We set rebar, steel bars that hold the concrete together and keep cracks tight, where the job calls for it, and we decide where the joints go before anyone orders concrete. If the budget is tight, I'll tell you to spend it on the base before a fancier finish. The base is hidden on day one and it's the first thing people cut, but it's the one part you can't fix later without tearing the walk out.
A sidewalk often ties into other concrete around the house. If the walk runs up to the garage, we can pour garage floor concrete so the floor and the walk meet cleanly. If you'd like color or a pattern on the walk, that's our decorative concrete work.
Here's how the work runs once the paperwork is done, so you know when the walk is torn up and when it's yours again.
We mark where the walk runs, how wide it is and where each joint goes, and you look it over before anything gets dug. Moving a line on the ground is easy, and moving it once it's concrete isn't.
We break out any old walk, dig to firm ground, pack the base and set the forms to the slope we checked. From here until the concrete has cured, that stretch of walk is out of use.
We pour at a time of day that suits the weather, then give the top a broom finish, a light brushed texture that gives your shoes grip when it's wet. Control joints are shallow grooves cut on time, and they give the concrete a planned place to crack so it doesn't pick its own.
Curing is the wait while the concrete hardens, and we keep the surface from drying out too fast during it, since concrete that dries too quickly comes out weaker. We clean up after the pour, and once the walk has cured I'll tell you it's ready to use.
Tell us roughly how long the walk is and where it runs, and we'll reply within 1 business day. I'll come out, look at the site, answer your questions and write up a free estimate at your property, with no pressure to book. If you'd rather talk it through first, call (747) 269-3817.
(747) 269-3817If the work is in the public right-of-way, yes. Calabasas requires anyone working there to get a permit and keep a copy on site during construction. These are called encroachment permits, and the city's Maintenance Division handles them. The city asks you to call 818-224-1600 to get one or to ask questions, and it inspects work in the right-of-way. As I said above, we check with the city about your address before we start.
In most cases, yes. The state licensing board requires a license when a job needs a building permit, uses additional workers, or comes to $1,000 or more in labor and materials. Smaller work still needs a licensed contractor if it's subject to a permit of any kind or the person doing it hires workers. Beyond the license, ask each crew about its past sidewalk work in hot weather, because the worst hot-weather problems tend to happen when a crew lacks that experience.
The best time is whatever time of day or night the weather is favorable, which is how national hot-weather guidance says crews should schedule a pour. A windy, sunny day calls for stricter care than a calm, humid one at the same temperature. Adding water to make the mix easier to work in the heat can also leave the concrete weaker once it hardens. That's why we'll move a pour time rather than rush it, and it's fair to ask any crew how it will keep the concrete from losing moisture while it's placed and cured.
It can, so the real goal is to keep any cracks small and well spaced. Hot-weather guidance lists the usual ways to do that: joints cut properly and on time, more reinforcing steel, and practical limits on how hot the concrete gets. When you compare quotes, ask each crew how it plans the joints and the steel, and I'll walk you through ours at the estimate.
Concrete sidewalk in the Los Angeles area usually costs about $3.50 to $8.50 per square foot of walk, and that's the going market range, not our price. Where your walk lands depends on its size, any old concrete that has to come out, the base work, the steel and the finish. Your estimate gives you the figure for your own walk, and it's satisfaction guaranteed on every job.
We're based in Calabasas, and most of the sidewalk calls we get are for the walk from the driveway to the front door, a path down the side yard, or a stretch along the street that has cracked or lifted. Each one starts the same way, with me walking the line with you and checking whether any of it sits in the public right-of-way.
We do the same work across the cities around Calabasas, including Agoura Hills, Westlake Village, Thousand Oaks and Topanga, for homes and other properties alike. If your city isn't on our list, call and ask.
A rough length and where the walk runs is enough for me to show up ready to talk about the base, the joints and whether the city wants a permit, so call (747) 269-3817 or use the contact form.
If you're still weighing a new sidewalk and have a question, call or send a message and I'll give you a straight answer.
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